Chateau, churches and flowers

 

A post from 2016 which, for some inexplicable reason, remained unpublished.
Not so cold this morning so left the heavy jackets and scarves at home and headed for Chateau de Vincennes at the end of metro line 1 and just outside the Peripherique which marks the boundary of Paris (https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ch%C3%A2teau_de_Vincennes). Originally built as a hunting lodge it later became a royal residence with a rich history - Henry V of England died in the donjon in 1422 following the siege of Meaux and the unlucky builder of the chateaux Vaux-le-Vicomte, Nicolas Fouquet, was also imprisoned there as was the Marquis de Sade. It was at one time the home of a porcelain manufactory which later became known as Sevres which is now located on the opposite side of Paris.

Metro exit right outside the castle and cold wind so we decided to walk around the castle to the Parc Floral de Paris where we thought we would find a flower market. No market but a beautiful multi purpose park with over 8000 varieties of plants (http://en.parisinfo.com/paris-museum-monument/71343/Parc-Floral-de-Paris-Jardin-botanique-de-la-Ville-de-Paris) - it is one of several parks which make up the botanique gardens of Paris. On the way we passed the Fort Neuf military establishment (sandbagged guard posts and men running around in t-shirts and shorts as though it was summer). Couldn't help wondering how many of them are part of the military presence all over the city these days. The fort was built between 1841-44 and is one of 17 built for the defence of the capital. German spy Mata-Hari was executed at the fort on 15 October 1917.

It was too cold to wander around in the Parc but we thoroughly enjoyed the little we did see - including the setting up for some type of exhibition introducing people to edible food gardening with runner bean tepees and straw bale walls. We passed another Guard Republic base as we walked around the back of the Chateau and examined the deep moat and ongoing reconstruction (the Chateau is more open on this side and you can see quite a bit of the inside area). The Keep with its additional sloping walled moat and tower (obviously a place of last defence for the royals) appeared unassailable (there was a strange marking in the lichen of the most walls that looked like a kangaroo).

Deciding that it was top cold to spend any more time investigating this fascinating construct we repaired to a bar for warmth and coffee and to reconsider our plans for the day. In light of the cold weather a warm bus ride across Paris to the market at Clignancourt seemed like a good idea (another place we have not visited for a long while and a ride which takes us through widely diverse socio-economic area of the city) http://www.marcheauxpuces-saintouen.com/1.aspx  As well as the military presence Vincennes is a university town and, riding through town, we were impressed by the quality of the apartments and gardens. Passing over the ever busy Peripherique we passed between the columns of the Barrière du Trône and entered historic Place de la Nation (https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Place_de_la_Nation)  a double concentric round about where 11 roads converge. Traffic slowed dramatically as we approached Republic and we saw many police vans parked along the side of the road so we're not sure what to expect. When we got there we relived to see that there was no demonstration like Saturday but saddened to note that the police were parked all around the monument and the “nuit debout” people and tents had been cleared out (obviously the police are now taking a much tougher stance).

Forgot to check first and discovered on arrival that the market is only open sat-mon but still interesting to see the area without the crowds (only the stalls selling knock off runners etc are open). A brief walk around then back on the metro to home.

Trains and explosions

 

Forecast 10 with drizzle so, rather than repeat last weeks efforts we decided it would be a good day to catch a train and re-visit the ancient town of Melun which we had last seen in 1984. Although not a remarkable place like Provins we have fond memories of an interesting town centre near the train station with a bustling marketplace. We had been there on one of our unsuccessful attempts to reach the lovely Chateau Vaux la Vicomte the tragic forerunner to Versailles with its gardens by La Notre Vaux la Vicomte A short ride on the Metro to Gare de Lyon to connect to the RER and we were away. The somewhat industrial but shorter route through the Val de Marne runs along the Seine for part of the way then cuts across country before rejoining it again at our destination. Melun was not as we remembered - the area around the station was dominated by the bus depot with one miserable looking bar on the corner opposite. Although the sun was shining and it was not too cold we decided that it was not worthwhile venturing further. Coffee an a muffin at the Gare then onto the express train back to Paris (fast and first class).

 

Arriving back in the magnificent old Gare de Lyon building (starting point for the fabled Orient Express) we realised we could not continue without a visit to Le Tren Bleu and all its memories (both for us and of Maggie Smith in “Travels with my Aunt”). 

 

Nothing stays the same - the wonderfully dowdy cafe section has been spruced up and lost all its old world charm.

 

Nevertheless we found a lounge in the Algerian Salon and settled in with Café mignardises (coffee plus macarons). My son David would be happy to see that the renovated menu has “a sélectionné les Grands Cru Nespresso pour vous garantir la meilleure des qualités et une richesse aromatique incomparable.” (Whatever happened to the barista making magic with his steaming machine?).         Too early to go home and looking grey outside so we decided to jump on the metro and go to La Grande Arche de la Défense at the other end of the metro 1 line. After getting lost in the labyrinthine shopping mall layered between the station and the terrace we finally emerged to bitterly cold winds whipping across a rather desolate looking space with some sort of temporary looking fun fair at one end and scaffolding covering the stairs of the monument at the other - definitely time to grab a bottle of wine and head for home.

We emerged from Bastille metro to the sound of explosions and the sight of fully armoured policy running past. Fortunately, it turned out that the explosions were smoke bombs set off by protesters and the running police were just trying to stay ahead of the crowds surging through the square from Republique where a protest has been going on since our arrival last week - la nuit debout     Nuit Debout

After our initial shock and fear we moved closer to find out what it was all about - everything: emergency measures, changes to pensions, unemployment, housing, the Panama papers. The marchers were noisy but well behaved and the police stood by ready for anything untoward. So much drama after such a quiet, reflective day.

Back home we sat with our wine and cheese and thought about what we had experienced in the last couple of days - Versailles, a symbol of all that was wrong in the times of Louis XIV; the Panama Papers and all that they symbolise; the European migrant crisis; the Nuit Debout protesters who have, “no plans and no leaders” who, as one of them has said, “…are demanding nothing,” he wrote. “…after decades of seeing you (the ruling classes) demonstrate your talents and your arrogance, the idea of negotiating anything with you seems absolutely pointless to us.”“We are the crazy Left. And we are coming…” These protesters are yet another example of the anger of the people evidenced by support for Trump and Sanders and Corbyn and extremists of the left and right around the world. 

These are not the peasants of the revolution nor are they the ill fated members of the Paris Commune but they ARE the people and they WILL be heard?

But will they make a difference?

I hope so but I fear not.

It is now 0350, I was woken by sirens outside our apartment at 0130 and can still hear them sporadically around the neighbourhood. Later today we will go to the market at Bastille and it will appear as though it was all a dream but the people will continue to simmer and governments will ignore them at their peril.

Versailles

Weather prediction - 11 and showers.

Cold and wet seems like a good day for a train ride - especially since our Navigo now cover all areas (1-5). Actually not too cold when we set out, sort of Tassie winter. Metro to Invalides the RER to Versailles Rive Gauche arriving 1040 to cool sunshine - can't believe it's been 32 years. 2/3 of building appears to be freshly cleaned and gilt everyIwhere is gleaming (we discovered that everything is being readied for 350 year anniversary in June).

How wonderful to be here early in the season before the hordes of tourists arrive.

The selfie to prove we were here - the concentration is intense and you can't even see the Chateau.

Pleasantly surprised to discover that entry to the gardens is free and one only pays to visit the apartments (no need to see them again - or the hall of mirrors). Not much colour but it all looks dutifully magnificent (we spent a little time reflecting on the poverty of the people that paid for all this and how not a lot has changed - although our poor are so much better off).

 

Garden pictures taken and a few ideas for new work explored then time to go. Exit via the bookshop, explore a little bit of the unrestored wing (cafe, ticket sales, interactive map), down the cobbles, through the gate, weave our way between the tour buses until we enter La place Hoche (Hero of the revolution ). 

Thinking we might find a small cafe round about we walked up the main road and turned down an old Allee called rue des 2 Portes (Interesting shops including a very tempting old bric a brac one which we steeled ourselves to pass without looking too closely). Near the end we came across the wonderful, traditional Charcuterie Artisanale des 2 Portes and decided that it was definitely time for an alfresco repast (no forest or park so we settled for a roadside seat near the markets) - tarte traditionale, salads peidmontaise and exquisite citron meringue tart to finish off (heaven - and many memories of travelling around France in days of yore). Outside the shop we are accosted by an older lady who wanted to know if we had bought our chapeau locally - we had to disappoint her by telling her we had gotten the in Paris.
Across the road was the wonderful Marché Notre-Dame de Versailles built in 1841 and claimed by some to be the best market around Paris. It is built around an open square with roads entering in the middle of each side with each wing housing different specialities (similar to Prahran market). Because it was market day the roads are closed and the square is filled with market stalls (we didn't really need anything but couldn't resist some lovely Vieux Gouda which we had only seen previously at Le Bon Marche - for a lot more money).

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=sC5Q8bo_0zg&autoplay=1

Video pans across exterior of market and ends at charcuterie (not mine but you will get the idea)
By 1440 we are back on the train heading home after a most unexpected adventure - not a drop of rain and a really rather pleasant day.

Paris - April 2016

Busy week

Arrived weds 30 March at 0530 after a dreadful flight on Air France from Hong Kong in premium economy. Having previously had a brilliant flight with them (code share J with Vietnam) we thought they would at least be as good as QF but no. Leg room etc was good but seats are worst I've ever flown in - capsule style but with no recline (the seat bottom slides forward slightly) and very hard. Food was just fare.
Tried to contact shuttle service but ended up calling Pompiers so spoke to CDG information people who very kindly made the call for us. Shuttle driver took us via Le Bourget and back streets of St Denis and Clichy to our apartment near Bastille where we were met by Olivier who showed us around and explained everything (and collected the balance of our rent). I was pleasantly surprised to discover that the apartment really was furnished with antiques as advertised - not Louis XIV but an eclectic mix collected by someone over a lifetime which is totally us. 

 

Best of all in a city where these old buildings have minimal bathroom facilities is a beautifully tiled modern Italian bathroom with temperature controlled shower taps (heaven) - Full details Paris apartment

After a nap we wandered down Bde Henry IV past the home of the Republican Guard to a Franprix store for basics to tide us over until the market on Thursday. Came back with a bottle of Moët to celebrate. Early night.

Last Week (where did the time go?)

If you stand in the middle of the Pont Louis Phillip just across the road from the Cite and look across the ends of both Ils (st Louis and de la Cite) to the left bank the horizon is dominated by the dome of the Pantheon. Earlier this week we set off to walk there and ended up having lunch at the foot of the beautiful church Saint Etienne du Mont while listening to the church's bells.

View from the restaurant

one of the reasons I think this is one of the most beautiful churches in Paris (as well as it's exquisite bells).
It was only after we returned home that we realised that if we had turned left at the Pantheon (it is in such bad repair that they are spending E100 million to restore it and it is currently held together by huge steel braces locked around it just below the dome) we would have been in the area where Hemingway and his first wife lived between 1921 -23.
Naturally we had to make this the object of another exploration. It was as simple as crossing the bridge to the left of the Cite (Pont Marie) and following Rue du Cardinal Lemoine to its end at Place de la Contrescarpe. 

Hemingway, Hadley and their son lived at 74 rue du Cardinal Lemoine and he had his writing studio just around the corner at 24 rue Descartes (where he eventually took up with his mistress who became the second Mrs Hemingway). If you are interested in Papa, his millieu and this period of life in Paris there is an excellent novel, "The Paris Wife" by Paula McLain.

Enjoyed another excellent French meal (Salade Geant) nearby in Rue Moufftard where the waiter insisted in giving us a free Kir to drink (white wine and cassis) as well as olives (how could we refuse?).

Every Sunday at Vanves there is a market called the Marche du Livre ancien et d'occasion which Maria Kunda pointed me to in 2005 so we visited there last Sunday in search of old newspaper/journals. It seemed a little smaller then last time but otherwise nothing had changed (even saw the same dealers sitting around the same small table with cheese and wine as last time). Found what I was looking for and rewarded ourselves with a perfect almond croissant at the Poilane bakery. 

I also managed to collect some interesting images of the ravens which inhabit the adjacent park.

Finally made our way to Montmartre cemetery by way of Clichy metro. It is a very pleasant, un-crowded place set in a former quarry and we enjoyed the peaceful atmosphere as we wandered about looking for people we know from history like Nijinsky, the Goncourt brothers, Gautier, Degas and Zola (it would have been much easier if we had a map but it was fun running backward and forward to the posted directions - it is not nearly as large as Pere Lachaise). 

Amongst the ubiquitous tourist boats that seem to clog the Seine there is a smaller boat called the Batobus
which goes from near the Jardin des Plantes to the Eiffel Tower and back again stopping at six places in between. It really is like a regular bus service where you buy a ticket and then hop on and off as many times as you like between 9.30 am and 9.30 pm. Anyway we finally succumbed and bought a one day ticket so that we could see Paris from a different perspective. Its a two hour round trip and we did a morning and afternoon circuit (different lighting) and I took 170 photos (that's five reels of 36 in old tech) - some of them may even be useful!

The Tuileries gardens are a must see whenever one is in Paris and we spent an enchanted morning there this week inspecting the plants, the statuary, the people (and the ravens) before catching the metro to Sevres-Babylon to get cheese and other goodies from the epicerie at Le Bon Marché. This is a beautiful example of art nouveau architecture designed in part by Gustave Eiffel and the epicerie has an amazing range of foods from all over the world.

On the way home we were stunned to get in to a carriage with 9 gendarmes in it (3 groups of 3 - they always travel in 3s) one of whom looked out along the platform at each stop as though they were searching for someone. When we got off at Pont Marie we discovered that there were another group of 3 in the end carriage (curiouser and curiouser). Actually we have noticed a lot more police and soldiers around since our last visit - there have even been lots of gendarmes in rubberduck inflatable boats on the Seine which we have not seen before.

Many other explorations and discoveries like these street art pieces downriver near Pont de Bercy when we were searching for Les Docks (old warehouses converted into the Cité de la Mode et du Design) which we had read about before leaving home. Les Dock was a non event as almost everything was closed - couldn't even get a coffee!). However we did have a delightful walk back home along the river.
One night as we were going out we ran into Jock Young and discovered that he has also been in the Cite for a month but across Rue Geoffroy L'Asnier in the other section (a small world).

Last night after a very hot day (31) we had a long evening walk to Notre Dame and around the Ile de la Cite to Pont Neuf to watch the sunset - it was perfect and a perfect way to say goodbye to Paris for now.
Marcia is taking down all my prints from the wall as I write this in preparation for the big pre-inspection clean up but it has been very worthwhile and I think that I have enough ideas for work for exhibitions in Hobart and Melbourne later in the year.
Until next time.

Explorations

Lots of exploration this week (both physically and artistically) so feeling quite satisfied with where we are at. The routine is much the same but the outcomes vary dependent on what happens along the way. We set off to explore La Promenade Plantee one sunny morning earlier this week but by the time we got on the bus it had clouded over so we decided to stay on the bus to the end of the line (Gambetta, near the famous Pere Lachaise cemetery) then return to the other end of the line to Parc du Champ de Mars (the Eiffel Tower at one end and Ecole Militaire at the other) an interesting trip through the centre of Paris. 

By the time we had criss crossed Paris the sun had come out and we had a wonderful time wandering around the paths that edge  the Park (avoiding the tourists) across the river and along the banks of the river as far as Pont Alexandre III (Port Debilly, Port de la Conference and Port des Champs Elysees). Along the way we discovered the Modern Art Museum of the City of Paris which we have never visited and added it to our list.
We eventually hopped on a bus back to St Paul where we stopped at the Fromagerie to buy some delicate young, soft Rocamadour goats cheese. 

We had visited Rocamadour when touring by car in 1996 and were struck by it's situation, built into the side of a cliff and the fact that it has been a pilgrimage site on the Chemins de Saint-Jacques-de-Compostelle since the middle ages (a history lesson with a small round of cheese). 
Another exploration took us back to Montmartre to find the cemetery. 67 bus to Pigalle then a short walk up the hill to Abbesses looking for a boulangerie that we had visited in 2011 (it was the winner of the best baguette in Paris for that year). Unfortunately it also was closed for August so we set off along Rue des Abbesses and discovered the 2010 winner (Le Grenier a Pain) who had the most delicious pastries we had seen (we settled for a gorgeous tartetine with red currants and cream custard). We never did get to see the cemetery but did discover the Montmartre Bus which wends its way in and out of all the narrow streets and up and down the hills (a much easier way to tour the area - and move through the hordes of tourists).

Finally got to traverse La Promenade Plantee on Wednesday and found it a very calm and relaxing space within the busy streets of the city (even though they were only ten metres below us. 

We discovered a very unusual design for a police station.
And ended up at the Jardin de Reuilly where there is an old station which was part of the Vincennes railway line which used to run along here.

After a relaxing lunch in deck chairs on the Plage near the Cite one day we decide to explore the rest of the Voie Georges Pompidou and Esplanade de Villes as far as the Canal St Martin. 

To our surprise we discovered that the dock continued alongside the lock and all the way along the canal to Bastille (another very different view of Paris)

We even discovered another Australian a long way from home

In the evening we met up with Lindsay and Jane for a catch up (they were staying in the Baldessin apartment out near Crimee) then afterwards decide to take the night bus to Champ de Mars to see the Tower lit up.

 Better leave off now and do some more exploring next week.
Work is going extremely well - lots of ideas and mock ups and I'm wanting to try them out but no opportunities for etching plates (or even digitally printing them without great cost) so I guess I'll just have to be patient and keep working. The Cite is certainly a great place to work up ideas as there is really nothing here to distract you (except the city itself of course but then it just sparks more ideas).

A week in review

It seems a little strange to be back in Paris - all very familiar but with a lot riding on what happens over the next few weeks. We are only here for 3 1/2 weeks and don't have time to settle in before getting on with the job of finding subjects/making work for exhibitions in November and December.

The flight over on Vietnam Airways took 35 hours and we were exhausted when we arrived and using a transit bus to get from the airport to the Cite was a very welcome extravagance - just the thought of the 10 minute walk through the RER/Metro transit labyrinth at Chatelet is enough to give us the horrors. The shuttle ride was twice as much as we usually pay using train/metro but what bliss to go door to door (with a drive through the city thrown in).

Our studio comes compliments of the Finns (Foundation Finlandaise) and is very well set up. It faces NE and looks toward the garden of the Utas McCulloch studio. It took us about 2 hours to set up to our liking (moving beds, tables etc) battling bad jet lag but in the end we were set and decided we had time to get to the Bastille markets for some supplies. 

Recharged our Navigo passes at the metro station and took our first ride to Bastille station only to discover that the market was not on - we were convinced that it was on on Saturday and didn't bother to check. Oh well, a pleasant walk back to St. Paul to Monoprix for groceries (picking up a millefeuille at La Notre - Fauchons - along the way). 

Then through the back streets to collect a baguette at one of our favourite patisseries and home. It was almost as though we had never been away.

Monday we woke from jet lagged sleep at 5.30 so had an early breakfast and were out and about at 7 to try for some early light shots of Norte Dame etc. 

Enjoyed a coffee overlooking the garden at the southern tip of Ile de la Cite at the rear of the church then ventured south along the banks of the river running past the university down as far as the Jardin des Plantes. This area (Jardin Tino Rossi) has been extensively landscaped with trees, shrubs, lawns and various built features as well as bronze sculptures (an extension of the Gardens?). 

We were stunned to discover that the lawns were covered with the litter of Saturday night's partying. This, despite the multiple placements of garbage bins and small skips (I guess the students here are no different to home and expect that their mothers or someone else will clean up after them). Stopped to buy a a baguette and were tempted by a freshly baked citron tart with meringue topping (tres Bon).

Spent a good part of the rest of the day trying to access the Internet with my laptop and reviewing possible images for exhibitions before a late afternoon stroll along the Plage (beach) which is set up along the banks of the Seine during July/August (it appeared to be much reduced from what we saw in 2011  - perhaps this is a result of the economic situation?)

On Tuesday we were on the 67 bus to Pigalle by 7 - a short walk up the hill to Abbesses for some more pictures then a short stroll to Sacre Coeur (glorious in the early morning light). The atelier where Ray Arnold used to work and which had been operating for over 100 years is now an Irish pub and the famous Place du Tetre (where artists historically work in the open air) has been taken over by the bars and cafes so the artists now have to squeeze into a 60cm space around the edges - c'est tragic.

Down the narrow streets at the rear of the church we came across several places like le Lapin Agile frequented by artists such as Modigliani, Picasso, Utrillo, etc. Also, finally, discovered the last remaining vineyard on the mountain - all very interesting. 

We eventually arrived back in a modern suburb but what we didn't realise was that we were on the opposite side of Montmartre to where we had started out. While enjoying a relaxing coffee at a small cafe (E1.80 as opposed to E2.80 on Ile st louis) we decided that we would visit a fabric shop which is just near the steps up to the Sacre Coeur.
Being the smarty pants that we are we jumped on a bus going to Montmartre assuming that this would take us back to somewhere near the Sacre Coeur. Wrong - we ended up at Porte de Montmartre which is adjacent to St Ouen and equally as poor. People had their belongings spread out on the ground in the street under the Peripherique trying to make a little money to keep them going - it was very troubling. 

We eventually found our way back to bus 67 (minus any fabrics) but on the way home the road passing the old BNP (National Library) was blocked by the pompiers and sapeurs (firemen) who had multiple vehicles attending some emergency. After about ½ an hour the bus managed to squeeze between two vehicles with some direction of the pompiers with about 1cm to spare on each side (these Paris bus drivers never cease to amaze with their skills).

Wednesday was a day of confusion - an early start to catch the light for the Eiffel tower only to discover that the camera's batteries were flat. Later in the day when shopping I discovered that I had lost my credit card (shock, horror and it was only day 3). Fortunately, after back tracking our days activities we discovered that the lady in the supermarket had found it and kept it safely in the office (huge sigh of relief). I did manage to work on some images (including from our early visit to Sacre Coeur the previous day) so the day was not a complete waste.

With a change in the weather we settled into a different rhythm with me working in the early morning then heading out about 9 for a coffee and to see where our feet (and the buses would take us) then back home for lunch and a nana nap followed by more work then another outing. After coffee one morning at the Blue Train cafe at Gare de Lyon (where the Orient Express used to leave from) we were walking back toward Bastille when we finally found the access to the promenade plantee/la coulee vert (a 4.7 km elevated linear park built on top of obsolete railway infrastructure in the 12th arrondissement) something that has eluded us before. We decided we would return one morning when the sun was out in the hope of getting some interesting images.

Another afternoon we went for a stroll along the Plage where they have some Monet images located amongst others telling a story of the history of the river. Then back up to Bde. Henry IV which runs up past the national  guard headquarters to Bastille. Along the way we stumbled across an exhibition about Paris architecture in the old Pavilion de Arsenal -an amazing 6 x 6m interactive google earth map of Paris on the floor plus, amongst other things a video/lecture about the history and restoration of la Samaritane buildings - simply stunning turn of the century architecture and so good to see what it looks like inside even in it's run down state.

Having now been at the Cite for over 4 months in total we finally decided to visit the Cafeotheque next door for a coffee one morning and discovered that, not only do they serve 16 different origin coffees (one each day) but they only charge E1 for Cite residents (as long as you sit on stools at the bar). 

Afterwards we wandered off through the Marais toward the Les Halles redevelopment and stumbled across the old National Archives building (Hotel de Sourbise) where I carried out much of my research in 2005. Very surprised to discover that they have opened up all the gardens to the public - a peaceful oasis in the midst of a very busy area.

Lunch consisted of beautiful slices of quiche (lorraine and tomato and chevre)  sitting on the steps of St Eustache church with it's amazing pipe organ (not playing today but when we heard it last time it was truly astounding - although I must say that I prefer the smaller but more beautiful sounding organ in st Gervaise (our local)

Friday afternoon was mostly sunny so we walked around to the Hotel de Ville to catch the Radio City bus as far as the Pont Alexandre III bridge for some (hopefully) sunny photographs. A good move because the sun came out and we got some really useful images with great lighting

All in all it has been a productive week and I think we are finally catching up to Paris time. In some ways it is good that the Bibleotheque des Arts Decoratifs is closed and I am not able to do any research about the use of Australian Flora in French culture as I just wouldn't have the time to do so and would feel torn in not doing it.