Monday, May 18, 2009

Heavenly Food - Heavenly Sounds

Friday - market day and black clouds are threatening. Two days ago just after I got back from the JB it started to rain and turned into a tropical downpour (thunder but no lightning) and finally hail so we are a little wary about going outside at the moment.
We had decided to go to the market at Bastille today because everyone who's stayed here recommends it (there are a couple of exercise books here in which people have left comments about their stay including tips about shopping, where to go to get the best deals, etc, etc. - brilliant) but discovered that it is not on until Sunday so we will return to Belleville to day as we need to re-stock.
The skies are a little less threatening at 1030 so we are off to catch the number 96 bus. Markets are not quite so crowded and we head straight for the cheese lady where we add a couple of new cheeses to our collection then wander up and down the aisles to discover where the best bargains are. We end up back at the same stalls as last week (a noisy Arab stall where the men are constantly shouting out their wares) because they have great stock at good prices (strawberries 1kg/$4, tomatoes 2kg/$4, cherries 1kg/$6). Another has cooked food and we by a Moroccan lamb stew (to go with rice or cous cous) and also shredded spinach in a cream cheese sauce (good for pasta). The bread lady has her sons helping today and we collect another round loaf with nigella seeds because it was good for toast (unlike most French breads that we have tried). A carton of eggs (large $4.40/15) and we are back on the bus to home. We realise that we have bought too much fruit but it was so fresh that we couldn't resist and besides the fruit salads will be good for us.
The rest of the day is spent working. I realise that the layout of my research on the wall is too one dimensional and I need to include a timeline which indicates whether things were happening before or after 1900. This makes the scene much more understandable.
Late afternoon and the sky has cleared somewhat (there are even occasional patches of sun) so we decide to go for our usual afternoon walk. I grab the camera as I want to get a photo of the old organ in the Eglise St Gervaise which is nearby. It is a reasonably small organ (by the standard of most of the churches we have wandered into over the past couple of weeks) and has a very modern stained glass window behind it which I also want a photo of (hopefully with the sun coming through). I walked past this church most days on my way to the National Archives in 2005 but never went in until a couple of days ago - it is quite austere inside with new coir matting running from the alter up through the centre of the church to the back row of seats. While we were there the organist played a couple of pieces and it was so beautiful - quite unlike others with a softer more gentle sound.
As we leave the Cite the bells start to ring out the angelus and we realise that it is 6pm. On entering the church via the back door which is closest to us we find it fairly full with a group of white robed monks and nuns kneeling before the alter. As the bells finish they rise to their feet and begin to sing it sounds so beautiful that we stand at the back of the church to observe for a while (I made a short video with my camera but it is too large to upload so you'll have to settle for a still).
Actually, there was soiree for new tenants of the Cite during the week and we met a young man from Nancy who is studying at the Consevatoire de Musique and he said that he had to go look at the organ sometime during the week because it is special. He also said that getting into the Conservatoire is very difficult with four rounds of examinations before selection (and that he has an exam this week that will last for twelve hours - he is taking a chocolate cake with him to tide him over). We also met a girl from Canada (sculpture), a young lady from Japan (painter) and a couple from Slovakia who lived for 30 years in Australia ) she is a printmaker/painter and studied at the NSA in Sydney - she works mostly with collography - she is on the left of the image, then the sculptor, painter, musician (with his back turned).

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